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Kewaydin 1999-2000

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1999-2000 Adventures

Kewaydin

IP40-87

Kim & Sandra Ahlers

St.Michaels

Report #1, 11/1/99

Dear Family and Friends,
Well, here we go again - heading South  - first stop Bermuda.
With Kim's cousin Skip aboard, we departed St. Michaels yesterday
10/30 at about 1100 (planned departure 1000). With light winds out
of the South, we motored down the Chesepeake, overnight, and
arrived in Norfolk to refuel at 0800. Beautiful stars last night,
and some shooting stars - the Taurid shower that will go on for our
whole trip. Half moon rising at middnight.We just left the Bay, going
over the tunnel of the Bay/Bridge/Tunnel, skirted around the
shipping at the entrance, and are now headed for the Gulf Stream.
We are having beautiful fall weather with days in the 60-70s, and
nights in the 50s, with light winds. We are motorsailing with about
10 kt of wind out of the South. We will catch a ride on the
Gulfstream tonight, and take it ENE for about 140 miles, before
bailing out into a cold eddy which will slingshot us around to the
SE, on the rhum line to Bermuda. At least that is the plan.
We expect some heavy weather - 30 kt winds - on Tuesday. We are
going as fast as possible to minimize that experience.
Everyone is happy, pschyed, well fed and rested.
More Later, Love, Kim and Sandi

Report #2
Subject:
Almost There
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 99 13:06:35 UTC

Dear Worried List,
We have weathered the storm in good shape. The front came through
last evening, and the wind dropped and shifted to the NW, so we
set all plain sail broad reaching for Bermuda 260 miles away. This
AM we are wing and wing in 15 KT steering straight for our "safe
waypoint" - 200 miles to go. WE should get to Bermuda Friday,
about midday.
We got lots of messages expressing worry about the weather. It was
not fun, would have liked to avoid, but we all did well. In the
height of it, Wed AM we were congratulating ourselves for doing so
well Tues nite. We were all feeling good about our performance and
Kewaydin.
Smooth sailing now to Bermuda, Love Kim and Sandi

Report #3
Subject:
Sunny Sailing
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 99 15:04:46 UTC

Dear Friends and Family,
We are blowing down on Bermuda on a broad reach in 20 kt of wind -
perfect sailing on a beautiful 70's day. We are 30 miles - 4 hours
- out of St. George, and have already called in to Bermuda Harbor
Radio to advise them of our approach and get pre-clearance for the
"three souls aboard". Since the passage of the front on Wednesday
eve, we have had good sailing with winds from the NW (Kewaydin
Wind), N, and now NNE, making our approach from the NNW easy. We
had various rigs up yesterday, Genniker, Poled out Genny, and now
we are on the Genny and reefed main.
We have all taken showers so we look good for arrival, and have the
guide books out studying up for our stay. Skips wife, Pat, arrives
tomorrow, and we will spend two nights ashore before getting back
aboard.
Love, Kim and Sandi (and Skip)

Report #4
Subject:
Bermuda and Lenny
Date:     Fri, 19 Nov 99 13:08:08 UTC

Hi All,
We are still here in Bermuda - per plan. Our crew for the next leg,
Marty and Cathy Morin aren't scheduled to arrive until 27Nov. We
will probably depart for the BVI on about the 29th, weather
permitting. That is a big qualifier, what with Lenny roaming down
around our favorite islands. Bermuda is full of boats doing what we
are - in transit to the Caribbean, and noone in their right mind
will venture south now. In fact, several boats have headed south,
and turned around to come back here. (Lenny is predicted to pass SE
of Bermuda, no closer than 450 miles, a safe distance) Yesterday,
we talked to a new returnee, flying the Carib 1500 flag, and found
out that they left the Chesepeake after us headed for the BVI,
diverted to Bermuda because of weather, stay here a couple of days,
headed out to the BVI, turned back, spent some more time here,
headed out again, and came back because of Lennie. They said they
are on the "Bermuda 3500".

Meanwhile we have joined the St. Georges Dinghy and
Sports Club, and have settled into life with the cruising
community and hanging out at the Doyle Sail Loft, where Steve and
Susanne can get anything fixed or ordered from the States. Their
Parrot provides entertainment.
Last night, we had dinner with Sasha and Penny Simmons, and Cindy
Young. Kim's Mom provided the introduction, because the Simmons'
stayed in Mom's B&B room while in SF "at some sailing races over at
the St. Francis YC" as she said. It turns out that the races were
the International One Design World Championships, and that Penny
finished second. He has won the title before. We watched some of
the races for the IOD North Americans while we were here.
Cindy Young lives in Bermuda and St. Michaels (yes, our SM) and is
working now to organize the Tall Ships coming to Bermuda for the
Millennium. Interesting People.
That's all for now,
Love from both of us, Kim and Sandi

Report #5
Subject:
At Sea Again
Date:     Fri, 3 Dec 99 22:25:54 UTC

Position: 30 00N, 64 20W
We have left Bermuda. We should be in Virgin Gorda next Wednesday.
Marty and Cathy Morin are aboard. Marty has a fishing line over the
stern - hoping to hook a Wahoo, Tuna, or Dorado.
Leaving Bermuda was a weather question. There are lots of weather
systems kicking up gales around this part of the ocean. Of about 50
boats in Bermuda, heading south, two left Sunday, 6 Monday, us
Thursday, and more leaving today, tomorrow and Saturday. We decided
to go out into high seas (10-15ft) and winds (30 kt) to get a head
start on a High pressure system moving into the area with low winds.
We now have 15Kt winds on the tail, and 4-6ft seas - good
conditions, with the Genny poled out. Our prediction is that we will
get into lighter winds (some motoring ahead) then get into the trades
around 22-24N Lat to blow us into the BVI. Good to be back sailing
Love from both of us, Kim and Sandi

Report #6
Subject:
Hi Seas
Date:     Sun, 5 Dec 99 18:35:25 UTC

Dear Family and Friends, Position 25 40N 64 41W (halfway)
After a Rockin and Rollin start, we have now settled in to nice
15-20kt winds on our Port Quarter, and moderate (less than 6ft)
seas. We are making good time, sailing when we thought we would be
motoring, heading for the trades.
Marty caught a fish yesterday, a 15lb Mahi Mahi. Sandi had the pan
on the stove before we had it filleted. Great midday meal (our big
one). Today we will have the rest in a Gumbo type fish stew. Kim
tried sashimi - good, but so fresh had little flavor. Needed some
Wasabi and Soy Sauce, but didn't bother.
We have had all combinations of sails up for the differing
conditions, Gennaker too. Right now Genoa, Main, and Staysail on a
Broad reach.
We are on a SSB net and talk each day to boats on the same track
to the North and South of us.
Great Stars last night, spectacular shooting stars.
Thats all for now, Kim and Sandi

Report #7
Subject:
Tropical Sailing
Date:     Tue, 7 Dec 99 16:55:45 UTC

Dear Friends and Family, Kewaydin loc 20 27N 64 18W
We are breezing along with winds on our beam, one day out of Virgin
Gorda, making great time. In fact, so good that we are slowing down
for an arrival after dawn. We like daylight landfalls, though we
know this place so well, we could come in at night.
The weather is tropical, 80 deg air, 82 deg water, sunshine, 15-20
kt trade winds, and flying fish all around us. Last night was
completely moonless, the dark of the moon, and the morning star,
Venus, was so bright that it cast a track on the water. No traffic
last night at all. We have seen three freighters in the whole
passage.
We are looking forward to landfall, going ashore, cleaning
everything up - the boat (salt), us, our clothes, and a restaurant
meal at a table that doesn't move.
We will spend a day up in Gorda Sound, then go over to Village Cay
Marina on Tortola so Kim can fly to the UK, and Marty and Cathy fly
home.
Love , Kim and Sandra

Report #8
Subject:
In the BVI
Date: Thu, 9 Dec 99 02:51:56 UTC

Dear Family and Friends,
We have arrived in Virgin Gorda - after catching a 12 lb Wahoo on
the last day out. Wahoo steaks and salad for out last dinner at sea.
At 4AM today, we saw the lights of the BVI on the horizon. At dawn,
we could see the outline of the Mountains on Tortola, Virgin Gorda,
Jost Van Dyke, and other islands. Beautiful.
There were rain showers around, and we saw bright rainbows as we
approached our harbor.
We pulled into Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor, got into a slip, washed
the boat down to get the salt off, checked into customs and
immigration, and got long hot showers ashore. We just came back
from dinner at Chez Bamboo, a very nice restaurant that Tim
introduced to us.
We are looking forward to a day up in Gorda Sound before we go to
Roadtown.
Love from both of us, Kim and Sandi

Report #9
Subject:
Bequia Christmas
Date:     Sat, 25 Dec 99 15:29:32 UTC

Dear Friends and Family, 13 00N 61 15W
It's Christmas Day in Bequia. There are more than a hundred boats
here in Admiralty Bay, good thing it is a large Harbor. After we
got here, we found out that Bequia is the place for Christmas if
you are Scandanavian. Swedes, Norwegians, Danes, and Finns all up
all night partying. Add to that most of the ARC fleet (European
Rally to the Carib) has moved here too. Quiet morning now.
We met up with friends from the 1500 last year, and had them all
over to Kewaydin for our Scandavian Xmas Eve of Herring (made with
Wahoo), Aquavit, Hardbread, Beer, and anything else that seemed
authentic. Wahoo makes great Herring.
So we're here, positioned to pick up Geoff and Geri in Grenada in
four days. Quite a time getting here.
Kim returned from England with as case of the "Airplane Flu" -
some international pathogen - that laid him low for five days.
Meanwhile, the fridge, that had been limping along, finally quit.
Luckily we found Alfred - the most onomotopoetic refrigeration
technician ever. He cheerily attacked it, replacing the electronic
controller with a 'will fit', recharging it and making it go
"Gurgle/Whoosh". About the same time Kim stopped gurgling and
whooshing, so it was time to head south again, to the Windwards.
The last day before we left, we make contact with Kermac IV, so we
had drinks with Dave and Judy, hearing about their summer in
Trinidad. They are headed north, we hope to see them in the
Chesepeake when we get back.
We planned a three day/two night passage cutting across the
Caribbean on a close reach. Just the two of us, and the Super Moon.
Thanks to all of you that alerted us to this once-in-a-century
coincidence of perigee, solstace, and full moon. We had mostly
clear nights so it was like twilight out there. We did use the
running lights. The second night was the actual solstace. A truly
amazing experience. Everything is coming together.
In the middle of the second night, Kim got nailed in the chest
with a flying fish - a heck of a surprise - I had no idea what had
happened for a few seconds. I still have a small bruise there. The
fish survived - I threw him back.
We were in SSB radio contact with our friends along the way - they
were coming down from Dominica and St. Lucia, so we got info on
the weather upwind. The last day, expecting an after dark arrival
in Bequia, we heard from Suze in at Petit Buyhaut on St. Vincent.
That was two hours closer, so we altered course by 3 deg, and made
for land. As St. Vincent was looming large, we were suddenly
surrounded by a pod of two or three dozen porposes, lots around
our bows, and others leaping out of the water astern. Sandi watched
them compete for the bow wave position. The show lasted five or ten
minutes, then they got bored with us and disappeared. Fun.
We got into PB just at dusk, got the anchor down (a couple of
times), and Jerry and Suzanne invited us aboard "as we were" after
58 hours and 380 miles. We had stuff and tonic, and crackers and
cheese, and good conversation. A wonderful welcome. We went back to
Kewaydin, showered off the salt and suntan lotion, and fell into
bed. When it rained in the middle of the night, neither of us
knew where we were, awakened from very deep sleep.
The next day - Christmas Eve - we came down 12 miles to Bequia and
checked in. Today we rest.
We send you peaceful loving Christmas wishes from our sunny gentle
anchorage. Sandi and Kim
P.S. we have been slow to respond to individual messages, will try
to get caught up today.

Report #10
Subject:
Grenadines
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 0 23:27:20 UTC

Dear Friends and Family, 12 27N 61 30W
Happy New Year.
We have been cruising the Grenadines for the last week. Geoff and
Geri arrived in Grenada 29Dec in the last century. We immediatly
bashed north to Carriacou, and went to Petit St. Vincent for New
Year's Eve. PSV is a very posh resort, so their celibration was
appropriatly splendid. We had our champagne early, with dinner,
went to bed at 1000, and woke up to the fireworks and horns etc.
Just right for us.
We heard many reports of the TV coverage of Midnight around the
world. Things are Global, aren't they?
Next stop was the Tobago Cays, with good snorkeling, and some
thinning of the 300+ boats that were purported to be there for the
New Year.
Then on up to Bequia, to rendezvous with SUZE. We hiked over to
the Windward shore, and to the turtle rescue project. Also, saw a
fishing hawk working the shallows.
Next to Petit Byhaut, and diving with Suzanne. G&G had a great
time on their first dive. Kim and Sandi did surface duty. We also
snorkeled into the Bat Cave, with hundreds of bats clinging to the
ceiling. In through a kind of vestibule over shallows, and then
left inside the cave to follow a cleft in the rock out fifty feet
or more to bright blue water. Fantastic.
Today, we rocketed down 53 miles to Carriacou. Tommorow the
Mangroves guided walk.
Having fun,
Love, Kim, Sandi, Geri and Geoff

Report #11
Subject:
Muddy Mangroves
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 0 12:55:42 UTC

Dear Family and Friends, 11 59N 61 46W
Our Mangroves tour with Dario from the Kido Environmental Research
Station was a trip. Kido has funding from the UN and EU and is
affiliated with Boston University. Dario, a Venetian, is an
enthusiastic environmentalist who has been on Carriacou for ten
years trying to gain the confidence of the locals to preserve and
protect their island ecosystem. A tough mission, since fishing,
farming, and some tourism are the only local sources of income, and
the environment is not at the top of people's agenda. We learned a
lot about making this initiave in a small, closed, island community.
We hiked around the north end of the island, through second growth
acacia, and saw the damage that the free ranging cattle do, around
to the mangrove swamp on the northeast side, facing PSV.
We hiked in, until the mud got too soupy for shoes,
took them off, and waded on, barefoot into the swamp. Picture this,
soft mud, little or no water on top, little fiddler crabs all
around, Black and Red Mangrove shrubbery everywhere, the four of
us, with Dario, up to our shins, knees, and sometimes thighs,
slogging forward, liking it. Those with the greatest foot area and
lightest weight fared best. Our objective was a count of new
mangroves, planted in an area denuded by a "fire" some time ago.
The count was duly done, without a lot of help from Kim, and we
made our way to a beach where we were relieved to swim and wash
off all the mud.
Dario then took us around to Windward, the area where they still
build wooden boats "by eye", no plans or patterns. Fascinating.
We then took a local "bus" (minivan with loud music and lots of
people) back to Hillsborough, and another to our anchorage in
Tyrrel Bay. Fare: 80 cents US.
We had a good dinner at Poive et Sel on the balcony facing the Bay.
We all have itchy spots on us - some sort of local poison ivy.
Yesterday, we sailed back down to Grenada, and anchored in Prickly
Bay on the southern side. We crossed 12 degrees latitude. Furthest
South.
Today we go to tour the "spice island". It's Market Day.
Love, Kim Sandi Geri Geoff

Report #12
Subject:
Machete Meal
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 02:26:24

Dear Family and Friends,
We are at Lat 12 32N, Long 61 23W, anchored at Petit St. Vincent
(PSV). This is the story of the Machete Meal, that we had last
night at the Tobago Cays.
The story starts in Bequia, lo those weeks ago when Geoff and Geri
were with us. On our walk over to the Windward side of the Island,
we passed through groves of coconut palms, with coconuts, new and
old, all over the ground, some sprouting. We decided that we needed
to try fresh coconut, so picked up two. Now how to open them.
Chapter two is in St. Georges, Grenada, when Carolyn Pitt and Kim
were wandering around shopping on her first day in town. After
lunch at the Carenage Cafe, we stopped into "The Best Litle Liquor
Store in Town". While checking out, we noticed that the other side
of the store was hardware and gardening, and that a fellow was
buying a Machete. Just what we need to make Kewaydin truly
Caribbean. We found the Machetes, in a variety of sizes, for $15EC,
about $6US. Kim selected one of the shorter ones, since jungle
clearing is not an intended use, and took it to the checkout. The
fellow there told us that it would need sharpening, and to go to
Caribbean Tobacco down the road to get it done. All wrapped up
(illegal to carry unsheathed), we went down the road. CT turned out
to be a cigarette manufacturing operation, that had a sideline
sharpening machetes. We handed over the blade, and had a great
discussion about how to grind it, rounding the point, etc. He
obviously does lots of them, and has his own style. Five minutes
later, after lots of grinding wheel sounds in the back, he
reemerged with a SHARP Machete, and rewrapped it. Two dollars EC.
The next day, in Prickly Bay, Kim goes ashore to hack the husks
off the Bequia Coconuts. There must be a technique to this, so I
found a big 8x8 in the Boatyard, and whacked away. Along comes a
local fellow, who says "No mon, like dis", and shows me how to split
the husk longitudinally, and use the blade to pry the husk off.
Technique mastered.
The next chapter is yesterday, in the Tobago Cays, we ordered a
lobster from one of the boat vendors, and he returned at the end of
the day with a frisky five pounder. Machete time.
First the Coconuts were drained of their water (makes a great
drink with rum and lime), roasted in the oven to crack the shells,
then the meat was thin sliced with a vegetable peeler, and toasted
in the oven. Lightly salted makes a good munchie to go with the
apertif.
The lobster was split lengthwise with the machete (after a humane
piece of surgery to render him dead), and done on the barbeque.
Sandi had made a spinach - feta stuffed bread (that's why the oven
was hot to crack the coconuts).
Dinner was the coconut chips with drinks, then grilled lobster with
the stuffed bread and some Vieve Cliquot Gold Label to accompany.
How do you open Champagne with a machete?
We enjoyed our Machete Meal.
Bon Appetit to all, Kim and Sandi with Carolyn

Report #13
Subject:
Update
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:11:23

Dear Friends and Family, Lat 14 34 Long 61 03
It's been awhile since the last Update. As planned, we just
finished a month with KEWAYDIN in Martinique. One
of the weeks Sandi was visiting family in California, while Kim
was in England doing a little consulting.
The next week, Kim's Mom came down. Our hotel was
the St. Aubin, that we got out of the Ulysses Guide, and
it was "extraordinarily romantic and charming" as billed.
"...located in a beautiful colonial house with a veranda running
all the way around. The stunning view of the Baie de Trinite and
Presqu ile de la Caravelle will simply take your breath away." What
the guidebook didn't say is that it is Haunted. We had the prime
rooms on the veranda overlooking the sea, and only one other
room was occupied for a few nights while we were there. We had the
place to ourselves.


We had a great week exploring Martinique by car,
visiting restored plantations (Habitations), Josephine's (Napolean's
Empress) birthplace, remote fishing villages, and
rainforests. Martinique is such a well organized, civilized place, with all
the gustatory advantages of metropolitan France. One of the
lunches was crepes in in a scenic open air cafe high over the rugged
Atlantic Coast.  Mom's French came in handy many times, we had a
great week togther.  Next, Jack and Julie Riester joined us on
KEWAYDIN, and we explored all the bays and anchorages on the Caribbean coast
from Marin up to St. Pierre. There, a party was sent ashore to
find some fresh fish. None in the SuperMarche, but
suggested that we go down to the beach. We found a fisherman who
had caught a big Mahi-Mahi, and asked him if we could have a
piece. We thought we had a deal, but there was much motion about
cleaning it, hauling it up to the Embarcadero, getting a scale,
slicing it into steaks, and selecting, weighing, and paying for
the right piece. We didn't know what exactly was happening until
the deal was done. (French - Creole French not being one of our
strengths). Back at KEWAYDIN, grilled, it was just delish.
On the sail back down from St. Pierre to Anse
Mitan, we were surrounded by a large gang of porpoises (a pod?).
About 50 were in a large area, jumping clear of the water, coming
over to play at our bow, and entertaining us for a half hour. We were
all on the foredeck, in wonder. After that fun, we headed into the large Bay of
Fort-de-France to our anchorage at Anse Mitan, and had a wonderful
port tack for 6 miles. Shifty winds of 15-25 kt meant hand
steering with reefed Genoa and Main, and all the staysail - making
6-7kts right to our destination. Ideal Sailing.
We also explored some ashore, returning to that
crepe cafe with the stunning scenery.
We said "Goodbye" to the Riesters this morning,
after a wonderful week. Tomorrow, we head North to Guadeluope. We will
check out at noon, and sail overnight past Dominica, arriving in
Pointe-a-Pite the next day. Martha Burgess is coming on Friday. A
week in Guadeloupe and the Saints is planned.
Love, Kim and Sandi

Report #14
Subject:
Martha and the Saints
Date:    Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:06:49

Dear Family and Friends, Lat 17 00N Long 61 47W Antigua
Leaving Martinique in the mid afternoon 23Feb, we sailed up past
St.Pierre, and into the Dominica Channel at sunset. We sailed all
night past the lee coast (west) of Dominica, and saw the sunrise as
we passed to the east of the Saints, on the south side of
Guadeloupe, and made it into Point-a-Pite by 900am. We tied up
stern-to at the Marina. Martha was to arrive the next day.
The Marina Bas-du-Fort is such a refreshing place. Shops, services,
restaurants, and all the water you want - free, plus a good french
boulangerie/patisserie for breakfast. We got stocked up with wine,
cheese, pate, bread, veggies and fruit at the SuperMarche.
Martha arrived on schedule, and we had Moules and Frite ashore,
since it was Friday. This is a Martha/Sandi tradition.
We set sail the next day - and were accompanied out of the harbor
by a few porpoises. What a treat! We headed for the Isle de la Petit
Terre on the extreme southeast of Guadeloupe. These are two uninhabited
national park islands with a blue lagoon between. Fascinating walking
ashore, around a self guided nature trail that looped out around the
unmanned lighthouse, and to the Weather shore. There we looked over
40ft cliffs to the seas breaking on the coral shore, and spilling over
into small tidepools. Amazingly, the porous coral vented small geysers
as the waves hit, creating a mini-Yellowstone scene. We left early the
next day to avoid the increasing swell which would render the
shallow entrance unpassable.
On to Les Saintes. This time there, we hiked some new trails,
one over the hills on Terre-de-Haut to the beautiful Plaige de
Pompierre, with views of the Grand-Anse along the way. Good we did
that late in the day, as the trail has little shade. Next day
breakfast ashore of crepes, then on to Terre-de-Bas and a good hike
up over the hills of that island, on a well shaded trail up through
the forest. At one point we were in a thick grove of Bay Trees,
used for the making of Bay Rum. Our arrival on the island was
thrilling, surfing into the beach with the dinghy. And the
departure was wet, out through the surf - only 3ft, but a lot for
the dinghy. In all our hiking around, we only saw one iguana - the
Saints have lots of them.
The cooking onboard was exceptional with Sandi and Martha working
together to create really imaginative and tasty dishes. Lots of fun
for Kim. We also had a fantastic dinner ashore with Dorado and
rice with a coconut milk/mustard/vanilla sauce. Amazing!
Heading back to PaP, we were only about 5miles out when we saw a
big swirl of water right on our Port quarter - 10ft away from the
boat. We watched as the swirl fell astern, and 30 seconds later
saw a WHALE surface and spout. There might have been another, we
weren't sure. This is the first time we have seen a whale from
KEWAYDIN. A little close - I guess we surprised it.
Martha headed for the Airport, and KEYAYDIN headed for Antigua. We
went up the west coast of Guadeloupe, and put in to Deshaies for
the night. There we saw PEREGRINE and ELIXER-B, but didn't have
time for socializing. Early next morning, we set sail for Antigua
- 40 miles of close reaching in 15 kt breezes with only 2-4 ft
swells. Great Sailing. Monserrat was clearly visable all day -
about 24 miles away to the west - and we watched it venting steam,
and the occasional ash venting that would last 2 or 3 minutes.
There are some reports that it is becoming more active again,
after its big activity 5 years ago. We stay well clear - upwind.
So here we are in English Harbor, Antigua under the ramparts of
the old British fort, named after Lord Nelson. Very good
historical preservation/restoration. Bill and Jan Hamilton arrive
tonight for a week here, in Barbuda, and on to St. Martin.
Having fun, we feel like a rolling party.
Love, Kim and Sandi

Report #15
Subject:
Ides
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 14:59:27

Dear Family and Friends, Lat 18 30 Long 64 22
THE IDLES OF MARCH
We are idle today, on the Ides of March, sitting in Virgin Gorda
Sound, near the Sanbox Beach Bar that has the best fish
sandwhiches in the Caribbean.
A couple of weeks ago (time is getting imprecise), Bill and Janet
Hamilton joined us in Antigua. We checked in at English Harbor
with its wonderfully restored/preserved Fort Nelson, and yachts
stern-to tied to cannons and other shoreside items.
We took off the first day up to Five Islands Harbor, where we
anchored with only four other boats in that unpopulated area. Rock
formations like a lunar surface, white sand beaches, just like in
the tourism brochures. This bay is large, shallow and turquoise,
giving the color to the underside of clouds seen approaching
Antigua.
Then on to the North Coast, into Boon Channel behind Horseshoe
Reef, and anchorage at Long Island off the private resort. More
turquoise water, strangely cloudy so snorkeling was not good. So
we went exploring/shelling on uninhabited Maiden Island. Shell
beaches interrupted by Mangroves, requiring wading around to get
to the next beach. Good Reef Walker country. Lovely. A headland
prevented a complete circumnavigation, so we backtracked to the
dink.
On to Barbuda, the reluctant part of the independent country.
On the way, WHALES! Sailing in fair winds, we saw a splash a mile
or so away, watched, and saw a whale rising out of the water
vertically, then splashing over on it's side. Just like on the
Discovery Channel. Humpbacks, we think. Then we saw the Tail in
the air, splashing the water. This went on for five minutes, all a
mile or more away. WOW!
On the south coast of Barbuda, we went in carefully, among the
reefs and coral heads to an anchorage in Gravenor Bay designated
in Doyle's. Eight feet of water, coral heads around us, we were
the only ones. Two or three others were in the next anchorage
over, near Spanish Point. Ashore, wild horses, donkeys, and old
"fort" , Beach Morning Glory on the narrow beaches, and a flat,
scrubby island. All the people are in Codrington, the only town.
Good snorkeling around the coral heads, or reefs nearby.
The next day, we had to check out of Antigua and Barbuda to leave
for St. Martin. We put into "Boat Harbor" - the only other boat
being a tug and barge with sand - Barbudas main export - and
called a taxi on the VHF. Reception was patchy, and we weren't
sure if we had a deal, but went ashore anyway, and waited. And
waited. In the hot sun, along a wide dusty sand road, watching
occasional Land Rovers, or pickup trucks, or vans roar by, but
nothing for us. Jan said, "Like a scene from a Chevy Chase movie,
like Vacation". We went over to the sand processing plant, and
found a guy who decoded the taxi arrangements, and finally a
driver arrived to use the Sand Company Van, because his taxi was
otherwise occupied. He drove us to the homes of the officials,
Port Authority, Customs, then on to the Police Station for
immigration. All like out of that movie. Funny thing, we weren't
the least worried about whether this seemingly random process
would work, or what it would cost, because we have learned the
rhythm of all this.
Returnig to the boat, Sandi discovered that she had left her bag
in the van with her wallet, etc. On to the VHF, got help from the
taxi fellow, and the bag was brought to the end of the dock by the
fellow closing up the Sand Company and locking up the van. All is
known on an island of 1500 people that operates in a very
collective manner.
That evening, after dinner, we set sail for the overnight to St.
Martin. We all took watches, and had a good reach and a dawn
landfall. A perfect crossing for Bill and Jan's first.
St. Martin offered the usual wonderful array of French bread,
cheese, pates, and wine. We also had Moule and Frites for lunch
one day - Friday, of course.
We rented a car, a tiny KIA for $30 for the day (insurance
included? Who knows when the contract is a hand writted receipt).
Good tour of the Higest point, Northern Beaches, swimming, and
shopping in Phillipsburg on the Dutch side. Even found a place
that rents Harley's. Next year...
Bill and Jan flew out of ST. Martin, and we crossed overnight to
the BVI, sailing in tandem with Jerry and Suzanne on Suze. Nice to
have a friendly nav light, and occasional voice on the VHF out
there.
Today on to Tortola, and meet up with Tim and Bonnie Pierie
tomorrow for a week in the BVI together.
Tim will crew with us up to the Bahamas the week after. We still
don't have crew for the Bahamas/USA passage in mid April.
Something will work out.
That's all for now, Love from both of us, Kim and Sandi

Report #16
Subject:
Deep Blue
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 15:38:48

Dear Family and Friends,
Lat 1936 Long 66 50 about 60 miles north of Arecibo, Puerto Rico
We are at sea again, making the passage from the BVI to the Bahamas
with Tim onboard to fill out the crew. We expect to arrive in
GeorgeTown, Exumas Fri PM or Sat AM. We have light winds, so are
motoring along in beautiful weather and a 4-6ft long north swell
(some storm out there in the North Atlantic, they don't get down
here). We may have to stop in the Turks and Caicos (Provo) for
fuel, we will see.
Right now there is five miles of water under KEWWAYDIN. We are over
the Puerto Rico Trench.
On the day of the Pierie's arrival, the fridge went on the fritz.
All the ministrations of Alfred couldn't get it working again. So
parts ordered to be Fed Exed from Florida. Bags of ice into the
fridge.
We had a great week with Tim and Bonnie in the Virgins, visiting
places we hadn't been to before. We went over to the south side of
St. Johns, and went into Coral Bay. The village is mostly 60's
hippies who are now into commerce (bars, restaurants, Tshirts, etc)
Much of their work is over in Cruz Bay, so Coral Bay remains pretty
mellow. We recommend the Skinny Legs Bar for Lunch.
Still on St. John, we went around the corner to Salt Pond Bay, and
tied to one of the nice new Park Service Moorings. Great snorkeling
on the reef in the bay, and good hiking up to the southern
promintory - Ram's Head. Along the way we saw a whole hillside of
Barrel Cactus in bloom, with as many as six hummingbirds visable at
once working the flowers. Sandi found the jelly-bean-like fruit,
and we ate several. Nice, pink firm tart/sweet fruit with a hint
of strawberry. Later we confirmed, with one of our books, that they
are edible.
Then back to familier territory in Gorda Sound. We took a taxi over
to Little Dix Resort, where we had a wonderful lunch. Their buffet
included a great selection of seafood, smoked salmon, seared tuna,
scallop curry, mussels, crab,...all excellent. We met Bob from
RockHopper there. He is just down putting his boat back in the
water, having put it "on the hard" after our (1998) 1500. Having
fun.
On the taxi ride back over the mountain, Tim dropped his wallet out
and onto the road - unnoticed. The loss was noticed at Leverick
Bay, and they retraced the route with the taxi - 4 miles of
twisting mountain road. At the other side, they were flagged down
by a father/son in their car, who had the wallet and were on the
way to the police station with it. GREAT RELIEF. Another case of
wonderful Island honesty.
Back at Gorda Sound, SUZE had joined us and WINDWALKER and BOOMER
in the anchorage. They had us all over for drinks, each boat with
guests. Good thing SUZE is such a capacious boat. Good time.
Thanks Suzanne and Jerry.
Jerry gave me a SSB frequency that broadcasts Morning Edition and
All Things Considered from NPR daily. Just like home.
Bonnie headed back to the USA, and we readied for the crossing. No
fridge parts arrived (turns out none were shipped), so it's ice
until we can get the parts.
Last night was beautifully starry, then a half moon, that reminds
us how wonderful nightime passage making is. Kim saw the "green
flash" at sunset, and a beautiful sunrise.
We plan some time in the Bahamas. We don't yet have a crew to go
up to the USA, so may leave KEWAYDIN there, go home, Kim go off and
do some consulting, and return in May, with a crew and a plan. But
you know cruisers plans, they are written in Jell-O.
Love from all of us, Kim, Sandi, and Tim

Report #17
Subject: WHALE!
Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:35:21

Dear Friends and Family, 
Lat 22 53 Long 74 02 Whale
Lat 23 30 Long 74 46 GeorgeTown 

We had a Close Encounter with a WHALE, albeit a small one. 
Absolutely fantastic. We were sailing along, making only 3 or 4 knots downwind in light 
conditions between Crooked island and Long Island in the Bahamas, when 
we heard a big breathing sound close to our Starboard side. Sandi 
looked, and saw a small (12 ft) whale swimming alongside. We are 
fuzzy on the identification, we think it is a juvenile Humpback.
We were in these wonderfully clear Bahamian waters, so could see it 
clearly when it was anywhere nearby including 40 or 50 ft under 
KEWAYDIN.The stayed with us for 2-3 hours, swimming astern a few hundred 
yards, then coming up to the stern and swimming under the transom, 
then darting to the bow, then swimming alongside. It breathed every 
few minutes, sometimes looking at us. Several times it swam 
alongside, and rolled on its side or back, showing its white
underbelly ( is this some regular behavior?). A few of the times 
that it swam under the boat, it registered on the depth sounder as 
32 or 48 ft. Now we know why we sometimes suddenly get readings 
when we are in a mile of water.
It was such a sight, watching it move with such grace and ease 
around KEWAYDIN. Truly a close encounter.
We were afraid that it is very young, and that it has lost its 
mother, and that it had adopted Kewaydin with its Blue underside.
We eventually turned on the engine, to get to our destination on 
time, and the whale stayed with us for awhile, then disappeared.
We take it as a gift that it was with us for so long.
We are now anchored at GeorgeTown in the Exumas. We had a great 
dinner at the Peace and Plenty last night, and Tim headed for the 
airport and home this morning. 
Love, Kim and Sandi

Report #18
Subject: Bahamas Postcard
Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 18:33:20

Dear Family and Friends, Lat 24 24 Long 76 38
The Bahamas are just Beautiful.
We flew back down to Georgetown, and got back on KEWAYDIN on Monday.
The fridge part was here (there is a story to this, a long one), 
and we installed it first thing. It worked, once we got a 
refrigerant charge from Rolle Refrigeration (after he fixed the gas 
connections at the restaurant after the fuel truck ran into the 
tank, but that is another story).
We went outside up to Farmer's Cut, and came onto the Banks there.
The weather is beautiful, with warm days (80s) and cool nights 
(70-75). Little wind, so we motor a lot. With the clear water, and 
low wind, we can see the bottom all the time on the Banks where the 
depths never go over 30 ft.
We are spending a day at the Exumas Land and Sea Park, moored near 
Park Headquarters on Warderick Wells. On land there are hiking 
trails, in the water there are snorkeling sites. Fantastic. 
Yesterday evening, we walked up to the top of Boo Boo Hill, giving 
us a fine view of both the Ocean and Banks sides. On the way we saw 
more kinds of lizards (identified with books at Park Headquarters) 
than we have seen the whole winter. One had a curly tail that 
uncoiled when running, and coiled back when stopped. The tide was 
high, so we waded through a section of mangroves in a very firm 
white sand bottom - much different than the muck on Carriacou.
This morning, took a walk just after sunrise up to the top of the 
hill on the North end of the island. Mocking birds singing. Saw a 
nighthawk.
After breakfast, went snorkeling in a cut onto the Banks. Did it at 
slack tide, but still did a "dinghy drift" - hung onto the dinghy 
painter because the tidal currents are strong - particularly in the 
cuts. Beautiful clear water about 10 feet deep with lots of 
coral heads in a white sand bottom. Saw a spotted eagle ray, Queen 
angelfish, Grey Angelfish, a Nassau Grouper, honeycomb cowfish, 
drum, tons of yellow snappers, and more big lobsters than we have 
ever seen - some just walking around on the bottom. Everything is 
large because they are all protected. This was the best single 
snorkel of the whole season.
This place feels like an Atlantic Galapagos.
Tomorrow we will go up to Highbourne Cay, and hope to see the 
iguanas on Allen's Cay. Next, across the Yellow Bank to Nassau, to
rendezvous with Jerry from Suze, and get a weather window to shoot 
up the Gulf Stream to the Chesepeake.
Love from both of us, Kim and Sandi 

Report #19
Subject:
GulfStreaming
Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 22:47:20

Dear Family and Friends,
Gennikering up the Gulf Stream at 32 01N 78 14W
After we left Warderick Wells, we stopped up at Allen's Cay, last 
stop before Nassau. There, we paid the obligatory visit to the 
Iguanas. They are so used to visitors that when a dinghy arrives on 
the beach, they come running out of the shrubbery looking for 
handouts. When we pulled into the anchorage, a significant twin 
engined float plan was taxiing out. We steered for the right to 
take it down our portside. Don't know the rules about airplanes.
Next day, across the famous Yellow Bank to Nassau. Jerry arrived 
about an hour after we did. Good timing. At Warderick Wells we had 
met David and Joni on a Hylas 49 that know Jerry and Susanne on 
Suze. We all had dinner together in Nassau.
Monday we left Nassau for West End, Grand Bahama. There we went in 
for the last fuel top off, and to wait for the Gulf Stream to quiet 
down. We left there on Wednesday PM, and went North to intersect 
the Stream the next day. Right on schedule the water temperature 
went up, and the Speed over Ground went up too. Getting a boost of 
2 to 3 knots. We've had mostly light tail winds so have been 
motoring at night, and Gennikering during the day. 
Right now we have the big fuschia and white and plum and aqua and 
purple chute up, with 10 knots on the stern quarter, making 
4-5knots over the water and 6-8 knots over the ground. We have 
light waves, so are rolling along quietly with the water whooshing 
by under sunny skies and pleasant temperatures. We are about 100 
miles off Charleston.
We plan to round Hatteras Tomorrow (Saturday) night, and to get 
into the Chesepeake Sunday evening. The winds are due to pick up 
tomorrow still out of the SouthWest, so we can move faster up 
around Hattaras. From the entrance to the Chesepeake, we may 
stop, or keep going to St. Michaels. Probably depends on the 
weather.
Love to All, Kim and Sandi and Jerry 

Report #20
Subject:
Home
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 21:42:35

Dear Friends and Family, Lat 38 48 Long 76 14
We're home in St. Michaels. 
We had a wonderful run up the Gulf Stream. At one point Sandi had 
us up to 11 knots over the ground, 6 over the water, and 5 from the 
Stream. After Gennikering, we went wing and wing the next day with 
a poled out Genoa and prevented Main, in following seas - a real 
sleigh ride. We all loved it.
We held tropical conditions all the way up around Hattaras, but 
then hit the cold grey air of a Low over Annapolis. We entered the 
Chesepeake at 6AM Monday with rain and wind and lots of commercial 
and Warships - no lie that is what they call themselves' "This is 
US Navy Warship...". We allowed them to pass in the channel.
The conditions in the Bay were so "non tropical" that we went in 
for the night at Point Lookout, where the Potomac enters, and spent 
a lovely evening in a quiet anchorage listening to the birds, and 
watching the ospreys fishing. We could smell honeysuckle coming 
in - a real "home" smell.
Tuesday morning we got an early start, and came up the Bay with 
following winds, and got into St. Michaels at 5PM. Good to be home.
A good passage with a good crew. Jerry flew home today.


Email us at cahlers@bluecrab.org - on land.
Love, Kim and Sandi

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